Beginner questions

2d (edited 2d)

Nascar fanatic or solder fanatic? Those look pretty shiny from that far away, good job!

Biggest thing is buy whatever you can get multiples of and just do that, but bigger! Thrust to weight Ratio!

Edit: you could get the vtx off the carbon/more in the center, you want it kind of away from everything for noise isolation, even the carbon, good job with the power routing! Ryan Quellet has videos if you want the full info.

https://youtu.be/T1_PZ4wSFW0?si=ZDx7FkhKJkIzTBWo

first 5in. congrats!

the first the you need to be aware of is how much power it has

your most likely use to hovering at like 35-40% trottle

the 5in hover around 15-20% throttle

ease it to it go slow until you get use to the power a little too much throttle and zoom its at 100ft.

for reference my 3in need 60% for a about a hole second to catch it self in a power loop, my 5in its a quick little bump. the whole power loop takes like 3-4 seconds that last bit to trying to fight gravity and catch it drone before smacking the ground is going to feel like and eternity when first learning power loops

two vids for refence 1st one is of a 3in, 2nd one is 5in, throttle% is top left on OSD just under batt volts

https://youtu.be/n7WUMwrDx98?si=xwQMkNA-UKJ1sa5E

+ 1 more video

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TheoHerd30

Beginner questions

i have a pavo pico and it has broken i was thinking of buying the pnp version because the o4 air unit is still fine can help help me find a drone that is pnp with elrs and can be fix with out doing soldering and is under $230

TheoHerd30

Author

i want the new drone to be 2s as that the only battery's i have

Is it the 'O4 light, O4 wide, or the O4 pro?

There's the Pavo Pico 2, there's also the Meteor75, the Mobula8 and the Darkstar. There's a lot of really good options out there, but I'm kind of partial to the new darkstar.

TheoHerd30

Author

its a 04 light and the drone i had was a pavo pico 2

I would recommend the Darkstar, its an awesome little drone! I've flown it and it handles great. I would get one but I'm going Walksnail and not DJI.

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FPVER12

Beginner questions

Hey im new to fpv(dont even own anything yet) i was wondering if i could get some advice on like a cheap controller for sims that would work well if i did get a drone

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Cakasparov

Recently got my Radiomaster pocket, Super happy with it.

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https://betafpv.com/products/literadio-2-sim-controller?srsltid=AfmBOopkvcRZ2Vk7823yBhSp6yD16RrXBeIupAYSkkyt85Qd_f3F42do

For something just cheap and it works. There's the betafpv sim controller:

For something that's a little more quality and actually functional, there's the radiomaster t8l:

https://radiomasterrc.com/collections/t8l-radio/products/t8l-radio-controller

But if you want a controller you can practice with and then finally use once you're up and running then you definitely want the radiomaster pocket:

https://radiomasterrc.com/products/pocket-radio-controller-m2?_pos=2&_sid=74945aa84&_ss=r

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cant go wrong with a radio master pocket for a solid, inexpensive, entry level radio that will work with other drones as you grow. note it dose not come with batterys. make sure you order a pair of 18650s form a reputable source.

if you want to skip the pocket and get a radio you wont out grow i recommend the radiomaster GX12,TX15,boxer, GX15 too new for me to recommend ATM, the only difference that really maters is there ergonomics hand feel and button placement. buy ounce cry ounce

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J-bird

Beginner questions

hi guys got the fatshark echo cheapys is there a antenna i could use to make my whooping alittle better

https://oscarliang.com/best-fpv-antenna/

4d (edited 4d)

yes, there are many options that depend on what type of flying youre going to do and what antenna your vtx uses. You have to make sure all the video antennas are the same polarization. Patch antennas are directional and help with longer, but narrower range. Lollipop antennas have shorter, but omnidirectional range. Linear are cheap/lightweight. Getting genuine antennas instead of knockoffs does actually matter with them as well.

I like my osprey lollipop, but truerc and tbs are better

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J-bird

Author

im flying the meteor 75 but i only have one option with the fatshark echo so i kinda have to choose wisely and when u say the lollis have shorter range what would that look like with no diversity and if the meteor has linier can i change the one on my goggles?? probably dumb question

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devilled_fpv

4d (edited 4d)

Beginner questions

Looking for my first pair of goggles, any advice?

Hi, trying to find a good pair of first goggles. I am looking for a budget analog pair up to $250AUD. I'm choosing between the BetaFPV VR04, EMAX Transporter 2 and HGLRC VR001. I am looking for goggles with good signal strength and good quality DVR recording. Also, I've heard that 4:3 aspect ratio is better than 16:9. Does that really matter for beginner freestyle? I would appreciate any opinions or other pairs of goggles I haven't looked into yet. Thanks!

Unfortunately at that price point you're going to have to settle for Budget goggles more than anything so don't expect the greatest range unless somehow you can get a directional antenna on there. The EACHINE EV800D I would say is a very budget pair of goggles, but you can swap out the antennas and you can even pop it off as a field monitor.

For what it's worth, if you're willing to step away from analog then I would definitely say look at the new Ascent system from Walksnail.

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4d (edited 4d)

It sucks, but I have to agree with you, there are no actual budget analog goggles right now other than the ev800s. I was surprised when looking at it

@AurilFPV I wanted to get some fatsharks or HD's... not at 800 bucks... ill get Ascent goggles for 150, and for 39 bucks per VTX its a no brainer I would think. HD video, 8k range, and cheap... Gimmy, Gimmy. Trying to get rid of my DJI because Walksnail is on fire!

devilled_fpv

Author

@AurilFPV yeah thats true. i've looked at the eachine ev800d, and they seem to have good features for the price. they look pretty bulky and old tho.

the issue with the aspect rato is analog video is 4:3, if the goggles are also have a 4:3 screen perfect match if the goggles have a 16:9 screen then you either get black bars to cover the unused pixels or the image is stretch/warped to fit the screen line watching old TV shows or movies. a good goggle will let you chouse the bars or stretch to fit. not really an issue some may make it a bigger deal that it is

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KurMax

Beginner questions

I want to start competing in drone races , I’ve been flying for quite a long time now. I wanted to ask those of you who compete: what do you recommend starting with? Simulators? Small drones with gates?

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5d (edited 5d)

I dont go to races irl yet, but soon Im going to post a free .stl of my 65mm/75mm practice gate that is specifically designed to be technical to fly through so you get better. I just use old plant hooks and yard-sign frames as gates in my back yard for 2".

Thats a nice looking set up, but you covered the dope looking patch!

NIce bag

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Beginner questions

How can I repair ?

tz3den

Yo, at that point, i'm pretty sure you should just change a frame and new connecter son. I dont know if the motors are even gonna work man! So did your quad fly into quicksand? 😂

Author

No 🤣 the Motors Works…

tz3den

@Fpvsuisse well thats good then!

@Fpvsuisse The motors might freely spin, but you wont know for sure if they actually work until you replace the bt2.0 and power it up again. Be careful when you do that as something else might be damaged or broken and short/catch fire when powered on

6d (edited 6d)

the best thing is as tz3den says to get a new frame and transfer. If you cant do that or dont want to.. give it a really good clean with some wipes and get all the dirt off. Get some e6000 glue or glue specific for that type of plastic and just glue up the cracks. Those look pretty bad though, so it would probably break again, but the right glue on the right plastic can be pretty strong. This is a big part of the hobby, welcome to the other side haha

Betafpv air/meteor frame and canopy should work great and frankly be a lot better, depending on which Cetus that is I believe you need a 75mm frame size for replacement

edit: just saw the bt2.0 connector, that will have to be replaced and soldered to the fc before anything else can be tested or fixed

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JdubFPV

Beginner questions

Is this a good steal for $110? Im getting into FPV and i don't have crazy money.

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I wouldnt say so but it depends what you value. If you want to just get straight in the air then sure go for it but tou wont have the best experience. Id say for that money just buy a radiomaster pocket and liftoff simulator or whatever you see fits your fly style.

Ex: velocidrone/DRL for racing

liftoff/uncrashed/tryp for freestyle

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the value of your money is subjective i cant answer that question for you. you need to judge that for your self. im have a more of a buy ounce cry ounce view of these things

as for kits like that the good: it has every thing you need to get in the air for $110 your not going to find anything in that price with everything you need to get in the air starting off with absolutely no gear

the bad: most or all of that kit is a dead end. meaning when you want to expand your going to have to replace everything. the goggles maybe will work with other analog drones i cant be 100% sure about that since the manufacture does not list any specks or even the manuals. when you crash and brake the drone, its not a if you crash and brake it its when ask any one here its going to happen eventually. finding the parts to fix it is going to be very difficult.

my recommendation for some one starting out with no gear or experience is to buy a radio and learn to fly in a sim. this will limit your finical loss if you decide this is not for you, and most important its waaaaay cheaper to crash in the sim. your going to be crashing a lot as your learn to fly.

radio recommendation is the radio master pocket very solid, reliable, will work with your next drones as you grow as a pilot, inexpensive, not the nicest radio though, if you want to skip the pocket and save up a little and get a radio that will last you forever get a GX12,TX15, boxer if you can get one cheep. the GX15 is OK IMHO but too new for me to recommend. the only difference for the big boy radio that really matters is the ergonomics, hand feel and there is not right or wrong one if that is the one you like

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Sijeong

Beginner questions

Hello! I am starting my first build and I am picking between these two frames: Speedybee Mario 5 o4 pro dc version, Axisflying Manta 5 se v2 dc version. I am planning to do cinematics and freestyle. Which one is actually better for my build?

MARIO 5 o4 pro DC VS MANTA 5 se v2 DC

12 users voted

If you want to do cinematic both are a great choise but for more intense freestyle id look for a true x or squished x frame from a popular company. A dead cat frame like these won't handle the best for freestyle.

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to be fair, my first 5" was a violator 2 dc and it did all the freestyle I could handle for a good while, its still my go to for 5" cinematic. There are other factors that will change flight characteristics more than the format, like would you have to carry an action camera that adds ~400g on an x vs having a dc that just uses the o4 pro. That being said, several years and +1000 hours in and Im building an analog kayoudur because its very clear that I wont be able to fly hardcore freestyle in real life at this level without it.

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we need more information, like what motors are you using. both are fine frames, so with just this info: whichever you can get the most spare parts for and whichever will give you the best thrust to weight ratio

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Sijeong

Author

I am planning to use a Speedybee F405 V5 stack with a T Motor VELOX V2306.5 1950KV 5" motors. I think I am actually a little more to cinematic.

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jsheeley1129

Beginner questions

What's up guy? Have a question, I just put together a micro toothpick using the emax nanohawk aio, the aio is confirmed good. Issue is, motors 1&3 spin up fine, but motors 2&4 don't. They get really restricted when I try to give them a little flick when checking it. Like they lock themselves but when I disconnect power they spin smoothly by hand. Is it possible I wired the motors up backwards while the aio is trying to spin the opposite way making them "lock up" when armed? Thanks guys. Happy flying.

1. Check to make sure your motor screws dont touch the motor windings.

2. Check that none of the motor wires are bridged together. If your using the plug check on the other side of the aio where the plugs are soldered to make sure nothing is bridged and everything is conected well.

3. Make sure ground isnt bridged with power anywhere with a multimeter just touch the two battery pads on continuity mode make sure for no beeps ,if you have a capacitor soldered it might beep for a split second then stop thats normal its just it charging up. Also make sure the motor wires do beep try all the combinations on the motors and make sure they beep because the plugs im suspecting your using could be not having good contact on the motors not working.

Also there is no way to solder your motors backwards as they are brushless motors where you can just change the directions in betaflight or whatever FC software being used.

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jsheeley1129

Author

They're direct soldered, no screws touch any windings as well. I have clean solder joints too. I've tried to trouble shoot all possibilities using the net and everything is pointing toward the wires being mixed up and I can't use motor wizard in beta because this little dude is on an older version of betaflight. Thank you for replying my friend I appreciate your help. 👍

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also check your settings in betaflight are all correct. Having the wrong motor/esc settings selected can cause this to happen. Especially having the wrong dshot or number of poles. Make sure the motors are properly ordered in betaflight as well and that you've selected at least the default tunes and filters preset. Remember, dont do any of this with props on. This is a tricky part of building, so try not to feel discouraged!

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jsheeley1129

Author

I've tried playing with the dshot numbers and it gets the same result. All of my motor poles are perfect also. I used the stock nanohawk cli dump and the emax motors that go with the nano as well. So it's all on stock tune. I should have mentioned this all started after I installed an elrs receiver in it and the 1 wire on motor 2 came off, re-soldered that, and 2 wires on motor 4 which were reattached as well. I swapped everything onto a toothpick frame, so everything with the quad was fine before that. It flew perfectly normal. Ive tried trouble shooting all possible avenues. That's why I asked if it was possible I crossed the 2 wires on motor 4? I'm unable to use the motor wizard in beta because as you probably know this little guy is on an older version of betaflight. I appreciate you replying and helping me out. I've only been into fpv for a little over a year and just started taking it up a notch and trying to build my own stuff. Thank you my friend I really appreciate your time.

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Beginner questions

Pls help me, I have the AvionRc Nexa 3.5 Evo pro… and if I fly it’s just like the first battery works Perfect, but while I start the second one the Dji o 4 pro binds with the Dji goggles n 3. But after while a Minute it diconect in the flight, what I do wrong?

Maybe turn down output power as my suspicion is that its overheating possibly and shutting down because of that.

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The first 2 things to check are temperatures and powers. Check what your vtx power level is set to, you probably want dynamic to start. If it is set too high, then it will overheat, especially if you are flying on an already hot day. Over heating is a relatively common issue. In betaflight vtx menu, make sure 'low power disarm' is set to on, this is especially important for dji. Heat begins accruing as soon as you plug the battery in, so it's important to get airflow to cool it down as soon as possible. You can also enable temperature sensors for the osd in betaflight osd tab, if the drone has them, so you can see if it is overheating

While doing this, also check the cable harness going from the vtx to flight controller and make sure it is properly seated. Check the mipi cable (camera to vtx cable) and make sure it is still properly seated, not getting pinched and isn't broken. MIPI are delicate as they are just bundles of very tiny wires and could easily damage in crashes. **Make sure the antennas are still properly connected to the vtx and not cracked or broken. Powering on a vtx without proper antennas can cause it to over heat and permanently damage the vtx**

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Author

So Like these so it’s German such in English Disarm with lov VTX Power and ein is on

https://www.diyfpv.com/resources/fpv-drone-simulator

yup, thats good. for dji, the power level is set in the goggles.

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elyasninjago

Beginner questions

guys is there a way to start begging fpv sim on web?because I'm in iran and in iran the drones are very expensive and I cant buy one.if u can help me im will be very glad <3

elyasninjago

Author

oh I fordo something pls give me a website that support ps3 controller <3

FPVenthusiast

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MidwestFPV

Beginner questions

I just joined a few minutes ago- trying to list a drone store worth of FPV gear on the marketplace. Is there a grace period before I can list items for sale? THANK YOU

I have an entire drone store of FPV equipment from 2017-2018. 90% brand new in sealed packaging. From racerstar to EMAX and everything in between. Frames, quads, tiny whoops, 1000’s of props, ESC’s, motherboards, motors, etc. would like to sell it all, a couple Mavic Pro originals with less than 6 hours flight time on each. The goggles in the photo are available, but in used/like new condition. Everything has been stored in temperature controlled storage units, inside Pelican Air 1615 cases. Everything is in pristine condition if it is used. Would like to find a bulk buyer if possible.

uavfutures

I would just make a listing for each type of product.

Just on the price you have. it may be difficult selling 8 year old gear. You can basically get some new DJI n3s for a close price. Best of luck

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AlmondKing

Beginner questions

Today i lost my basically brand new air 65 2 and me and my friends searched till night I had to call it and had to leave the drone behind at the park, it felt like leaving my hand in a dumpster. At least im going back tomorrow but its forecasting rain so im hoping that it does not get wet. Idk maybe there's someone who has some good idea to help but im really unsure...... but idk I JUST DONT KNOW! 😭😭😓😰😓😰😔

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uavfutures

watch the dvr for a clue as to where it might have last been seen or heading.

☝️ 4

BrickFPV

Just like uav futures said, look at the dvr to find some clues.

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Bhill

Beginner questions

Looking to buy a

drone

It's a good start to come here ... read read and listen to @uavfutures on it's Youtube channel.. You want to do what with your drone?

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JacobFliesFPV

Beginner questions

Does anyone know how to make the srt file go with the video file i have from my VR04 googles cuz i cant get the OSD to show.

https://oscarliang.com/betafpv-artlynk/#VR04-HD-FPV-Goggles

Oscar Liang:

OSD Tools

With systems like Walksnail, OSD data is often saved as a separate file that can later be merged with video. The BETAFPV P1 ArtLynk system works differently:

The Betaflight OSD data is embedded directly inside the recorded MP4 file
The goggles do not export a separate OSD file
You can’t simply toggle OSD on/off after recording

This means you need a tool that can extract that embedded data and render it back onto the footage.

A developer created a fork of the Walksnail OSD Tool that supports BETAFPV P1 ArtLynk recordings. It scans the MP4 file, extracts the Betaflight telemetry and OSD data, and overlays it onto the video.

Download links:

OSD Tool: https://github.com/ksielick/walksnail-osd-tool/releases
Sneaky FPV Fonts: http://sites.google.com/view/sneaky-fpv/

Drag and drop the MP4 file recorded by your BETAFPV goggles into tool, it will:

Scan the video for embedded OSD data
Extract telemetry information
Detect subtitle (SRT) files if present

The tool requires a Betaflight-compatible font which you also need to download.

Download a font pack (e.g., Sneaky FPV fonts)
Drag the font file into the application

Use the built-in sliders to position the OSD elements on screen. You can preview the result in real time to match the layout you want — typically similar to what you saw inside your goggles.

When everything looks correct:

Click Start Render (bottom-left corner)
The tool will generate a new video file
The output will have the OSD permanently burned into the footage

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choongster

I am using the P1 system.
I use walksnail OSD tool. But some version of the walksnail OSD tool did not read the SRT automatically.

Therefore try a different version of walksnail OSD tool if you don't see the OSD file being detected.

Good Luck

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Beginner questions

I flew with my MOZ72 to test more Crossfire communication with my RadioMaster and I was surprise to have only a 2km range..."Telemetry lost" it said a less than 2km... weird

SundryTea

The radio link can go well beyond the point where you lose telemetry and it is quite nice to have radio link rssi on your osd, so that even after you lose telemetry you can keep an eye on the link. The reason the telemetry doesn't go as far is because the receiver only has about 100mw of output power(sometimes even less). If you do need more range, look into decreasing the packet rate on your radio if you haven't done so already as this will increase range quite a bit. It will increase input latency, but not too much (about 7ms at 150hz).

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Author

Haaaaaa you're the first one that confirm that. So even if I get this message I can continue! But I will adjust this .. THANKS mate!

SundryTea

@jfpoulin Do note that the rssi low warning that will show up on your betaflight osd is different, and does mean you are about to lose your radio link. Happy flying!

Author

Oh ok!! Thanks!

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popplestones

Beginner questions

I'm heading up the sunny coast (sunshine coast, qld) today, where is some good spots to fly?

GanDad

If you do find somewhere that's cool - I'm very interested. 👀

Good luck.

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AlmondKing

Beginner questions

So my drone has the arming disable flag RXLOSS but at the same time when I power on the transmitter and then the drone it says on the transmitter that there is full signal and the receiver light is solid but betaflight says that there's RXLOSS so idk what to do. Also my transmitter does nothing when I connect it to the drone

Check you have RX going to TX and TX going to RX between the receiver and flight controller. If TX to TX and RX to RX, the receiver will still get power, but it wont have signals. In Betaflight, make sure you have the correct UART port for the receiver selected as SerialRX. In the configuration tab make sure you have the correct protocol: CFRS (ELRS) vs SBUS. Make sure you have the correct mapping for the radio in betaflight: AETR vs TAER. If all else fails, re-solder, re-flash, re-enter settings for the receiver. This still happens to me sometimes and it can be so frustrating, especially when I repeat that checklist several times and then it just seems to randomly start working.

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AlmondKing

Author

@AurilFPV so the receiver is wired correctly ✅️. How do you know what Uart is right?

Also the protocol is right ✅️. and one last thing is the mapping thing what is that?

I'm sorry to bother you about it so if you have a video you would recommend, just to get me off your shoulders 😁

All good my friend, this is a genuinely frustrating problem. The UART number will be on the physical board, the physical representation of the UART are the ground, voltage, RX, and TX solder pads, so whichever number is next to "RX/TX" on the FC is the port to change in Betaflight. Make sure both the ELRS RX/TX wires are on the same number RX/TX solder pads on the board. Generally UART 1, 2, 3 are the ones the FC maker want you to use. Also, make sure you aren't on the same UART as your VTX if you are using an HD connector for the VTX and not soldering wires directly to the board, this might require looking at a wiring diagram for the FC.

Channel mapping deals with which stick is throttle, pitch, etc., I believe you probably need "AETR1234", just to try to keep it simple.

It was definitely a Joshua Bardwell video, but for some reason I cant find it right now, his clips channel also answers a lot of questions like this from his livestreams. I actually just use the google search ai for a lot of stuff now though.

Remember, dont test with props on inside!

Let me know if you get it working!

tz3den

@AlmondKing I'm pretty sure that if DarwinFPV soldered it right, and you have no problem flying it the first few packs then is either a cold, cracked solder joint maybe?? Or you crashed and you ended up soldering the wire wrongly? I don't know man, there are lotsss of possibility. I recommend to just solder on a new receiver. :3 hope it helps!!

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Beginner questions

So what setting to use for a 680 1S battery do you use 6A or 7A?

GanDad

First time 1S user here as well - I'm using 1A - is this correct? 👀

6A 7A seems high?

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