Squid509

its the motor Kv and batt voltage together matching the prop diameter to get the prop tip speeds to fall in ideal ranges. if you post the motor and prop specs i can take a look

here is walksnail goggle X, avatar pro VTX the 2 antenna one, stock antenna, ignore the RSSI alarm i had the setpoint set to high and get false alarms

what kind or range are we talking about?

the absolute max rage comes from the high watt "industry" grade analog VTX just due to there increased output power due not there are FCC rules about transmitting at higher powers levels.

digital systems like DJI, walksnail, P1, transmit data packets from the drone to the goggles/VTX and the goggles need to talk to the drone to say i revived the packet send the next one. this is what make sharing the live feed a PITA, since you cant pair more then one goggle/receiver at a time. you can still share the live feed its still a PITA the easiest way would be to use the HDMI out from the goggles to a portable monitor. this is what i do with my walksnail goggles x. some goggles do have a wifi stream from the goggles i recommend avoiding this the video is very laggy, unreliable, short range connection and its adding RF interference 

the first the you need to be aware of is how much power it has

your most likely use to hovering at like 35-40% trottle

the 5in hover around 15-20% throttle

ease it to it go slow until you get use to the power a little too much throttle and zoom its at 100ft.

for reference my 3in need 60% for a about a hole second to catch it self in a power loop, my 5in its a quick little bump. the whole power loop takes like 3-4 seconds that last bit to trying to fight gravity and catch it drone before smacking the ground is going to feel like and eternity when first learning power loops

two vids for refence 1st one is of a 3in, 2nd one is 5in, throttle% is top left on OSD just under batt volts

https://youtu.be/n7WUMwrDx98?si=xwQMkNA-UKJ1sa5E 

  

if you want to skip the pocket and get a radio you wont out grow i recommend the radiomaster GX12,TX15,boxer, GX15 too new for me to recommend ATM, the only difference that really maters is there ergonomics hand feel and button placement. buy ounce cry ounce

 

look the O4 plug and the FC socket your going to have to goggle the wiring guide for your FC. look at the colors of wires and make sure they go to the correct place, most follow the DJI pin order on the 6pin plug but not all of them do. A UART (Universal Asynchronous Receiver-Transmitter) uses 2 wires for data transmission one pin/pad will be TX and this one only talks, the other RX only listen so the TX need to be wired to a RX is part is quite opposite to all the other pads on a FC.  if these wires are crossed your FC can not talk to your VTX and you will not get a OSD.

i do know the 2 most common cause of no OSD is incorrect wiring and betalight settings

you have a betaflght setting issue or incorrect waring to your VTX

the way HD digital dose the OSD is the FC talks to the VTX and then the VTX draws the OSD your FC and VTX are not talking to each other

the common wiring mistake is the TX and RX wires are crossed, to should be TX -> RX and RX->TX. if your using the plugs you still need to double check it not every FC manufacture orders the pins the same way.  DJI plugs have 6 wires if your are not using a DJI controller you can exclude the SBUS and the closest ground wire to the SBUS.

in betafligh you need to configure betafligt to use digital OSD its not setup that way buy default the easiest way is to use a preset JB talks about in this video

if you dont want to use a preset or its not available yet you need to use a few lines in the CLI instruction on what to type in are in the VTX manual sec 4.6 (page 18 and 19)

as for kits like that the good: it has every thing you need to get in the air for $110 your not going to find anything in that price with everything you need to get in the air starting off with absolutely no gear 

the bad: most or all of that kit is a dead end. meaning when you want to expand your going to have to replace everything. the goggles maybe will work with other analog drones i cant be 100% sure about that since the manufacture does not list any specks or even the manuals.  when you crash and brake the drone, its not a if you crash and brake it its when ask any one here its going to happen eventually. finding the parts to fix it is going to be very difficult.

my recommendation for some one starting out with no gear or experience is to buy a radio and learn to fly in a sim. this will limit your finical loss if you decide this is not for you, and most important its waaaaay cheaper to crash in the sim. your going to be crashing a lot as your learn to fly.

radio recommendation is the radio master pocket very solid, reliable, will work with your next drones as you grow as a pilot, inexpensive, not the nicest radio though,  if you want to skip the pocket and save up a little and get a radio that will last you forever get a GX12,TX15, boxer if you can get one cheep. the GX15 is OK IMHO but too new for me to recommend. the only difference for the big boy radio that really matters is the ergonomics, hand feel and there is not right or wrong one if that is the one you like