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Liquideath

Ultimo accesso: 13 ott, 13:35
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1 luglio 2026 alle ore 20:15

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Eta 02.07.26

25 giugno 2026 alle ore 22:23

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Added more detailed chip configuration to the part-builder
Immagine pubblicata dall'utente

22 giugno 2026 alle ore 10:49

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Yes, will certainly check on that, more updates coming soon

13 giugno 2026 alle ore 03:57

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Heyy! Thank you for the message! I'll add the verified badge for Stew and the devs. 

12 giugno 2026 alle ore 07:35

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When I started in fpv, I made a similar choice - built a beast of a 5inch, but I kind of regretted this decision as I was not very comfortable flying a big and arguably dangerous drone. With it also being quite easy to break after a single mistake having it as my only option stifled my flying skill development. If you're really starting from scratch the first step would be to get a good remote - Radiomaster Pocket (with ELRS protocol) is THE perfect remote to start, next you’ll want to spend ~10hrs in a simulator like Liftoff or the one we have here, on DIYFPV. When you've gotten comfortable with flying in the sim, I'd invest in a good whoop - they’re perfect for learning to actually fly, hard to break, parts are cheap and they're easy to maintain. There are 2 main sizes - the 65 and 75 (air65 vs. air75 for example). The 65s are perfect for flying indoors and can be flown outdoors, the 75 is a bit too large for indoors in my opinion, but handles better in the wind. Make sure that the whoop's RX also supports the ELRS protocol. For goggles, look on the second-hand market for some quality goggles with oled screens. There could be some older skyzones available for a good price near you. If you've already got a 5 inch and are looking for an RX, you can pick literally any ELRS receiver - the manufacturer and model does not really matter and a decent one can be grabbed for around 10-15EUR on Aliexpress. 

15 maggio 2026 alle ore 14:44

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Heyya! More product specifications are live : )

27 dicembre 2025 alle ore 08:13

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16 dicembre 2025 alle ore 12:34

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Looks fabulous, but I don't quite get the idea behind a frame this big - what are the advantages of this vs. good ol' carbon fiber + screws?

14 dicembre 2025 alle ore 02:06

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The moment has come!!!!!! Check out the top of the page : )

Image posted by a DIYFPV member

12 dicembre 2025 alle ore 22:27

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@BagelFPV This is a simple matter of mathematics.


Let’s assume you’re using 500 mAh (0.5 Ah) batteries and charging them at 0.5 C. That corresponds to a charge current of 0.5 A, meaning a full charge takes about one hour (0.5 Ah ÷ 0.5 A = 1 h).


If we assume a very optimistic flight time of 5 minutes per battery, you would need at least 13 batteries to fly continuously. Charging starts the moment the first battery is drained and plugged in, so you need 12 additional batteries to cover the full 60 minute charge time until the first one is ready again.


In reality, charging usually takes a bit longer than an hour due to reduced current near empty and near full states, as well as general battery degradation. Factoring this in, a more realistic and safer estimate would be somewhere in the range of 15–18 batteries. 

11 dicembre 2025 alle ore 09:45

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You’d be safe with either option, but if you’re not in a hurry, go with 0.4A or even lower. The slower you charge, the longer your batteries will last.

2 dicembre 2025 alle ore 08:14

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Definitely not the end of the world. Just be mindful of how you charge and then store the batteries

2 dicembre 2025 alle ore 07:51

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"I'll do you one better, why is Wally?" - Drax

1 dicembre 2025 alle ore 13:18

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Completely agree with Toms - this was genuinely a great nudge in the right direction. A well-designed battery helper could save newcomers (and honestly, plenty of experienced pilots too) from a lot of uncertainty.

We’ll make sure the tool covers the points you mentioned: recommended charge/storage rates, IR expectations by cell type, and safe ranges for aging packs.
Additional things we’ve already thought about including:

  * Nominal, storage, minimum, and maximum voltages per cell

  * Safe discharge current estimates (C-rate calculation)

  * Puffing indicators and when a pack should be retired

  * How temperature affects charging and performance

  * Charging safety tips (Lipo bags, fireproof surfaces, what not to do)

  * Cycle tracking (rough life expectancy for different chemistries — LiPo, HV, LiIon)

  * Balance lead & main lead health checks

  * Signs of internal damage after a crash

  * Charging warnings (e.g., never charge above X voltage per cell, avoid fast-charging if IR is high)

  * Expected flight times for different quad sizes with that battery

  * Storage tips (humidity, temperature, how long they can sit at 100% safely)

  * How IR changes with temperature and age

  * Safe disposal guidelines

Basically, something that takes away the “am I doing this right?” feeling we all had at the start - and sometimes still do.

1 dicembre 2025 alle ore 11:46

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Is this for training purposes? Flying in a risky new spot with the dummy and when confident, add the real thing back in?

28 novembre 2025 alle ore 08:13

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Have you checked out the Map and put a pin there? You might have some luck with messaging people around you

28 novembre 2025 alle ore 08:11

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I’d start by re-flashing the SD card with a fresh OS. If that doesn’t help, switch to a different card - SD cards can get flaky with long-term use, and this one might just be a dud.

28 novembre 2025 alle ore 08:06

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Ideally, you should keep your batteries in a LiPo safety bag/pouch - both during charging and during storage. These bags are inexpensive, usually around 10–15 “freedom dollars,” and they significantly reduce risk.

Over 95% of spontaneous LiPo fires occur during charging or after a hard crash where the pack has visible damage or deformation. Because of that, you should inspect each battery before every flight, right before plugging it into the drone, after every flight, and before and after every recharge to check for puffing or other abnormalities.

For extra safety, regularly measure the internal resistance (IR) of each cell using a charger or multimeter capable of IR testing. As a rule of thumb:

10–15 mΩ - healthy

15–20 mΩ - aging

20+ mΩ - danger zone (faster voltage sag, excess heat, higher puffing risk)

If a pack or a specific cell shows elevated IR or visible damage,
retire it immediately or clearly mark it as “not for drone use.”


27 novembre 2025 alle ore 15:28

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Heyy! Nice to see you here! 

27 novembre 2025 alle ore 14:04

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Heyy! I created 2 posts about my experience with tinywhoops - the mobula6, air65, air 75 as well as meteor 65

Comparisons between the 3:
https://www.diyfpv.com/post/cmht0qozu0006mzjk9tlioi2k

Nuggets of knowledge I've picked up about whoops, more in-depth:
https://www.diyfpv.com/post/cmhnqtte10000ahbc906cxpn5

Prendiamo il volo insieme e portiamo il mondo dei droni FPV a nuove altezze.

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