Wraith
Zuletzt gesehen: 21. Okt., 02:09
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7Flying the skies with mighty surprise.
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Sadly, when it comes to DJI there is no future proofing. Just because in the past they have made it so the goggles three can use all the hardware from the goggles too. Doesn't mean they'll do that again. DJI is very money oriented, and if it means getting you to fork up extra money because you're already locked into the ecosystem then they just might do it. That's the reason why they don't have any sort of vrx that can be used with other solutions.
@Raskern walksnail also has its new Ascent series which is significantly more affordable and starting to do some impressive things range wise. I have an Ascent light plus that I've changed to a cherry 2 antenna and I've managed to get about 8 km of range with the standard goggles. The air unit themselves only cost about 40 bald eagle dollars. Another really cool thing is it has audio recording capabilities which once they figure out how to use it with the goggles I'm going to have a blast with! Avatar stuff out here is still pretty affordable though, $250 Maple syrup dollars for a moonlight or gt2 while an '04 pro unit is about $350
I've never seen DJI be anything affordable, the cheapest and most practical thing I've seen them sell is their 04 light but you still have to spend $500 on a pair of goggles
Before I see anymore, the the only real question I have is what in your opinion is the true reason why you would want to switch to DJI as opposed to sticking with walksnail?
Personally I've had both, and I've chosen to stick with walks now. For me it's cheaper than DJI, and I actually get support without a warranty which is absolutely amazing as DJI throws you under the bus as soon as you don't have any sort of insurance.
DJI quality will absolutely dwarf walksnail, they have better latency as well and fantastic connection. But if you're just wanting range, the Avatar gt2 is going to be unbeatable if you upgrade antennas.
I'm heavily biased to walksnail, but what I would definitely recommend is to to get a hold of somebody locally. Maybe on here and see if you can give their stuff a try?
I mean... your lookin nice and steady and your not jerking the camera around or afraid of getting close to things. So far so good, just practice more and more!
How's your slow game though? Can you fly slowly in small spaces/tight obstacles? That's always overlooked IMO because its easy to fly fast, but much harder to get low, slow, and tight.
Solid progress so far though! And a KILLER environment to fly in!
How's your slow game though? Can you fly slowly in small spaces/tight obstacles? That's always overlooked IMO because its easy to fly fast, but much harder to get low, slow, and tight.
Solid progress so far though! And a KILLER environment to fly in!
Caddx Ascent lite+, caddx Ascent goggles, any PNP system made to run on a DJI o4 with ELRS, grab a o4 or ascent adapter, and just grab a dirt cheap controller. Get some cheap batteries off FB marketplace or even here with a cheap AliExpress charger and your set.
Biggest issue you're going to run into with a 3" trying to do long range is going to be its efficiency. Whatever you do you're going to have to run Li Ion and you can't punch out hard with it. You also won't be getting 10 km of range with any sort of digital system within a suburb area due to Wi-Fi pollution. You also have to get above the house line to maintain a positive connection. Otherwise we're going to run into hard drop-offs.
If you really want to do long range and don't want to go big and it has to be an open prop then I'm going to recommend sticking with a Flywoo LR4 and a 3000mah Li Ion or bigger battery.
2. Oktober 2026 um 03:51
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I made a few out of coat hangers and multicolored straw packages from the dollar store.
2. Oktober 2026 um 02:18
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So that means you have wired your power and your ground correctly. Otherwise it wouldn't be getting power at all. The failures coming from between the battery to the power on the FC so that means it could be a communication, cable failure or even a failure in the the PCB itself. At this point. I'm not sure what else it could be in all honesty.
What's the FC you're using? Or the whole stack for that matter
30. September 2026 um 17:13
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What's your telemetry Source if I may ask? Elrs, crossfire? When you go into the bindings in betaflight and the receiver tab, are all your buttons working and your mappings configured correctly?
I was having a lot of problems with that once and what I ended up having to do was swap out the receiver on the drone, but that may not be the case for you depending on what the hardware is.
30. September 2026 um 00:35
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Absolutely. Double check anything and everything that has to do with the motors first, and then make sure that communities the communication cable between the flight controller and the ESC is intact.
I don't have the cleanest soldering skills in the world, I'll be the first to admit it, but I definitely triple check my shoddy craftsmanship all the time and try to be my own biggest critic that if something doesn't look right, I do it again!
30. September 2026 um 00:04
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Double check your solder points, maybe you're not receiving full power through one of the connection pads and it's possible that it's grounding out or partially short-circuiting.
Double check the motor, make sure nothing 's protruding into it, around it, or that the center shaft screw isn't too tight. Also worth giving betaflight a check. Maybe you can try using the motor tool to diagnose it?
27. September 2026 um 19:04
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Winter and batteries don't get along... but just as AurilFPV said, whoops fly inside too so the fun never stops!
Best wat I've found to warm a battery up is to leave it in a fireproof box next to my door with a fan on it to wick the condensation away.